Rodovani is on the wild west side of Antipaxos, below high white cliffs, and it is as empty today as the old books describe it. It too was once a loading point for the island’s stone, and there were two rows of quarries here.

Its mark is the islet of Rodovani standing off the shore, white cliffed and steep. You can take a boat between the islet and the land, through the reefs that join the two, but the old sailing note is still good advice: only in a flat calm, or you will be put on the rocks. Beyond it is a smaller outcrop the islanders call Rodovanopoulo.

Two things worth walking to are close by. At Pounta Alikies, the salt point, there are flat slabs at the water’s edge where the women of the island made salt in the natural hollows of the rock. And at Chelidonograva, the swallows’ cave, a great hollow has its roof carried on one enormous block that you can walk right around, with swallows nesting inside, which is where the name comes from.

Nothing is built here and almost no one comes.